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Fire Dancers tend to believe that adding fire to a prop, poi or stick is a straightforward matter. Learning a few more techniques and being "careful" however will not show you what to be careful about. Knowing the precautions can save you and others from being badly hurt.

On this page we have listed a few points to consider when fire dancing. Please note that this is not an extensive list of considerations. You are welcome to contact us should you require any further information or any other matters that you feel are of a safety concern.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT & PROCEDURES:

The first and most important point is your and other's safety! Never put yourself or others at a risk!

Check your equipment and gair everytime before using it. Check split ring by the handle for over stretching, check condition of wire and connection to wick. Check ball chain links and all screws. Make sure Fire blankets, slightly damp towels, appropriate fire extinguishers and first aid kit etc. are readily available. This will also include checking first aid box is fully stocked and fire extinguishers are pressurized and ready for use.

Be aware of local fire safety regulations and permits if required.

DIPPING

Fully immerse wicking in fuel and carefully swirl. Try not to cover the rest of the equipment in fuel.

REMOVING EXCESS FUEL

Squeeze excess fuel out of the wick to prevent spraying whilst spinning.

LIGHTING THE EQUIPMENT

Always light equipment at its base (the bottom of the wick). In windy conditions use your body to shield the flame so it doesn't blow out. Turn it so that the wicking isn't just burning on one side. When lighting equipment, make sure that it is a safe distance away from the fuel container.

EXTINGUISHING EQUIPMENT

When the flame gets low and fuel runs out fire will begin burning the wicks instead. We recommend you blow out the fire from the bottom of the wicking. Should the fire not extinguish after two blows place the wicks on the ground and smother them with a damp towel. Make sure to keep a safe distance when doing this as the fire could easily push towards yourself instead of away and out from the source. In an emergency use the correct fire extinguisher.

FIRST AID TO TREAT BURNS

Hold burnt area under cold, gently running water for approximately ten minutes. During this time the burned area should return to normal body temperature. Carefully remove jewellery and clothing from affected are but no not remove anything that is stuck to the skin. Cover the burn with a sterile, non-stick dressing. Should the burn victim be conscious and thirsty provide frequent small amounts of water. Ease pain by gently pouring cold water over the dressing. Seek medical aid as soon as possible should the burn not be minor.

DO NOT apply any lotions or moisturizer, prick or break blisters, overcool the victim, put towels or adhesive bandages directly onto the burn.

WATCHER

When your footwear is on fire or you are panicked because of intense pain, you need someone who knows how to use a towel [see below] and/or fire extinguisher [see below]. A person who knows what he/she is doing and won't cause you additional pain. Another fire performer is your best watcher. You can learn a lot by watching out for others. Watchers should always be within two-second's reach of the performer.

Torch Jugglers can usually watch out for each other; however a third person will is always useful to have just in case. Larger groups of fire performers should have extra watchers not only to guard the fuel supply but also to provide mains of crowd control to keep others out of the twirling zone

DAMP TOWELS AND WATER BUCKETS

Watchers should use a damp (not wet as they could cause steam burns) towel to put out wicks, crush any ashes when you are done juggling or spinning fire und also to suffocate the flames if your hair or clothes catch on fire.

Use pre-washed 100% cotton towels (artificial fibers will melt and may contaminate burns, and new or unwashed cotton is full of flammable fluff). To dampen towels and burns, keep towels near a ¼ full19 liter bucket of clean water. Have at least one towel for each performer and one bucket for every three performers.

FIRE EXTINGUISHER

Should anything else catch fire or if the towel isn't big enough to cover the flame, use a fire extinguisher. Never aim an extinguisher at or near a persons face. CO2 extinguishers may freeze the skin but are excellent for most fires. Dry powder extinguishers will put out any fire however it can contain anything from baking soda to very obscure compounds, thus it is important to show the doctor the extinguisher used on the victim. This will allow the doctor to treat the burns correctly and most effectively. Pressured water extinguishers should only be used outdoors and away from electrical equipment.

DRY TOWEL

A dry towel is useful for wiping up spills and dribbles on yourself, as well as for spills that could damage the finish or paint on anything else your fuel could have come in contact with. Do not use a wet towel for this.

FUEL BOTTLES

The more fuel you carry, the greater the risk of unexpected fire. It is important to carry only as much fuel with you as you need for your performance.

Most cities, states or places require fuel to be kept in the original container with the labelling / Material Safety Data Sheets clearly shown. Where two or more fire dancers gather bring one container for everyone and share the fuel. Never keep fuel in the passenger's compartment of a vehicle. In cause of an accident the fuel container might crack and spray the fuel around the inside of the vehicle and ignite. For longer trips we recommend you do not carry the fuel with you but buy it when you arrive. Public transportation (planes, buses, trains etc) impose strict rules regarding fuel and you will need to comply by these rules.

Never use glass containers as they can break and scatter fuel. The fuel could come in contact with a heat source and subsequently explode.

Metal screw-top fuel bottles are safest, with wide-mouthed, fuel-rated sports bottles holding no more than a quarter of a litre of fuel are also adequate. Fuel bottles should be checked regularly for cracks or leaks. They should be strong enough to withstand pressure (being stomped on) without bursting or blowing off the cap. Plastic bottles must be rated to hold fuel or they will slowly leak and cause hazards. You will need a heavy metal bowl or a clean paint can (with lid) for dipping your wicks into. Your bowl or can should be large enough to hold a set of juggling torches or several pois, and be powerful enough to stay upright.

Label fuel bottles clearly and accurately. Mislabelled water and fuel could be the cause of fatal accidents and injuries.

AIRTIGHT METAL CONTAINERS

A metal tool box will suffocate the flames on torches and will store them safely and cleanly. A cylindrical metal food-storage container is recommended to hold juggling balls in place and provides a vacuum to extinguish flames instantly.

FIRE-RESISTANT CLOTHING

Plastics and artificial fibres (nylon, polar fleece, etc.) catch fire almost instantly and will melt. Once melted the material forms hard crusts under your skin and inside muscle tissue, whereas natural materials (cotton, leather, wool and silk) will eventually be absorbed as the body heals.

Jeans and t-shirts (100% cotton) are very common fire clothing and are comparatively safe. Remember to tie back long hair and do not use hairspray or cologne before fire dancing.

MATCHES AND LIGHTERS

After you have lit a torch do not put the lighter (also Zippo-type) into your pocket or carry it on you while performing. Should you come in contact with a flame while fire dancing, this flame could cause the lighter to explode. Where possible use a match stick to light prop wicks that you have to hold. When a lighter is surrounded by a flame or a heat source it can cause a serious hazard and explode.

All of fuels are highly toxic if inhaled or ingested.
Below we have listed a few fuels and included useful information on eaach:

KEROSENE (called paraffin in many places outside the U.S.) is the safest fuel for all fire props. That doesn't mean that it is safe, but it's safer than any other kind of liquid fuel. It is the least explosive of fuels but should be treated as if it is highly toxic.

If Kerosene is splashed on the skin it needs be wiped swiftly. If it is not you could suffer from a skin rash. Should the liquid have contacted the eyes you need to rinse your eyes thoroughly and in case of a someone drinking Kerosene this person needs to drink a few glassed of water to reduce the possibility of indigestion, gas, or diarrhea. Do not induce vomiting.

Please note: only a few brands of kerosene are 100% pure. These are sold as aviation kerosene and are not available to the general public.

All other brands and types of kerosene (aviation fuel, coal oil, heating oil, lamp oil, and fuel oil) contain a variety of extremely toxic ingredients. These additives or impurities are absorbed though the skin and mucous membrane, and accumulate in the liver and kidneys. Some directly attack the corneas, so if such kerosene is splashed into the eyes, the eyelids should be held open and flushed for fifteen minutes, and you should seek medical attention immediately. Again, if swallowed, do not induce vomiting, but seek medical attention immediately.

Scented and unscented lamp oil is kerosene without the bad smell. But contrary to popular belief, the additives that make it more aesthetically acceptable also make it more poisonous.

COLEMAN FUEL and LIGHTER FLUID (Ronsonal and Zippo) consist of naphtha with various additives to control smell and appearance (not as smoky as kerosene). However it is more likely to explode or get out of control than kerosene. You cannot dip blown-out but still smouldering torches into naphtha because that will instantly set the contents of your fuel jar on fire; even when approaching the fuel while holding smouldering torches can cause the fuel to explode. You must completely extinguish all smouldering and wait at a minimum of thirty seconds before recharging your torches when using naphtha. Naphtha is as toxic as the worst of kerosene's.

GASOLINE, PAINT THINNER, AIRPLANE FUEL and other highly volatile fuels are extremely explosive and extremely toxic. The fumes remaining in a 3.6 litre container that has been emptied of gasoline can explode with great force. When it is very hot and humid, gasoline fumes will not readily dissolve and may be ignited up to 30 Minutes after all the original products are capped and stored. The fumes from Coleman, lighter fluid, and barbecue starter will explode but not with the same force. Kerosene and lamp oil are fairly hard to blow out, and thus are used in lamps and heaters.

GRAIN ALCOHOL is produced by fermentation. It is the basic ingredient in beer, wine, and liquors, and is not immediately poisonous. Beverages with an alcohol content of 60% (120 proof) or higher are explosive enough to be used with fire props, but are seldom used because they produce a small flame.

Fire-eaters and fire-breathers sometimes use high-proof liquor, such as Rum. This avoids the problems of poisoning, however should be treated with care. EVERCLEAR (100% pure, 200 proof) grain alcohol approaches is as explosive as gasoline, making blowbacks almost inevitable. A medical problem with liquor or Everclear is that from doing a few blasts of fire you could become very drunk, which is not an acceptable condition when handling fire.